Edge Craft gives a needed boost to OKC's BBQ scene
Edge Craft Barbeque opened last week with an offering of stellar smoked meats, including brisket, pulled pork and turkey.
Minutes before opening his doors for the first time, pitmaster and Edge Craft Barbeque owner Zack Craft thanked the dozens who were already in line and pleaded for patience. After all, it was the first day for a new restaurant and growing pains are almost a given.
Almost immediately staff dealt with a malfunctioning register that held up the line, which might also need some adjustments on how it snakes through the restaurant.
But who cares about all that; a dedicated staff will quickly finetune its system. We were there to eat smoked meats, which out of the gate was already on point.
The fatty slices of brisket were almost too tender to handle, usually a sign of being overcooked, but in this case was just a product of weight from nearly inch-thick slices cut by Zack, who was manning the cutting board. In true Central Texas-style, which Edge Craft is aiming for, the slices had a simple salt and pepper bark that was tasty but not too overpowering. Being first in line also allowed us to grab some succulent burnt ends off the first cut.
The pork ribs were a bit tough but flavorful. The pulled pork was about as tender as I’ve had in Oklahoma.
The turkey was moister than any poultry has business being, and the sausage had an outstanding garlic and pepper taste that finished with a spicy kick.
The fact that Zack was already offering stellar barbeque on his first day shouldn't be too surprising as he was previously the pitmaster at Maples, a short-lived joint that was a trailer before moving to the Plaza District.
Edge Craft is a major step up from what was offered at Maples. Besides the food never quite finding great consistency, Maples never felt right with its high-end Plaza District spot. I love the Plaza District, which is great for hipster pizzas, boutique sandwich shops, and an artisan pie bakery.
But Edge Craft’s location on Linwood Boulevard in west Oklahoma City just feels more like an authentic barbeque joint.
Located in a neighborhood of warehouses, Edge Craft is inside a double garage door building with a standalone smokehouse where the wood of choice is post oak.
Edge Craft is a place that gives me hope for the future of barbeque in Oklahoma City. We’ve seen some amazing restaurants and trailers open in recent years across the state but OKC’s barbeque scene has largely been driven by old-timers and hard-to-find trucks.
My BBQ journalism will bring me back to Craft Edge to learn more about Zack’s history and technique. But Friday’s mission was to determine if this promising joint was worth visiting: It is.
Open just three days a week (hours below), Edge Craft is true to its slogan of offering small-batch BBQ and it wouldn’t surprise me if the long lines we saw on opening day quickly become the norm.
1920 Linwood Blvd, Oklahoma City, OK 73106
Open Friday, Saturday and Sunday 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.